How to Clean Outdoor Furniture: A Material-by-Material Care Guide

HDPE is the simplest material to clean: mild dish soap, water, and a soft-bristle brush handle most jobs. HDPE, a dense, weather-resistant polymer lumber, has color that runs all the way through, so there is no finish to scrub off or chip, and it never needs sealing, staining, or oiling. For dirtier jobs, WestinTrends' care guidance allows a pressure washer on its lowest nozzle setting.

The Ashore Modern Outdoor Folding Adirondack Chair shows how little upkeep HDPE asks of you: its care routine is soap, water, and a soft-bristle brush. It pairs HDPE with marine-grade hardware, has a contoured seat, wide armrests, and a high backrest, and holds up to 450 lbs. It measures 30" W x 32" D x 35.5" H, folds for storage, and comes in 14 colors. It is splinter-free, UV-stable, and backed by a 20-year warranty on HDPE components.

A routine HDPE clean takes a few minutes:

• Rinse the surface with a garden hose to knock off loose dirt and pollen.
• Mix a little mild dish soap into a bucket of warm water.
• Scrub with a soft-bristle brush, following the grain texture of the boards.
• Rinse until the water runs clear, because dried soap residue attracts more dirt.
• Let it air dry or wipe it down with a clean cloth.

For stubborn spots like grease, sunscreen, or tree sap, a degreasing dish soap and a second pass with the brush handle most jobs. For mildew, or before using anything stronger than soap, test the product on a hidden spot first, rinse well, and check the maker's care guidance. If you pressure wash, use the lowest setting and keep the nozzle moving.

Skip scouring pads, wire brushes, and wood oils or stains. For more on easy-care materials, see our guide to low-maintenance outdoor furniture, or browse the full HDPE outdoor furniture collection.

Clean teak with mild soap, water, and a soft brush, then decide whether to keep its golden color or let it weather to silver-gray. That one decision sets how much effort you commit to, and both looks are valid.

The silver patina route is low effort: sunlight turns the surface a soft gray, and care is occasional soap and water. To keep the honey tone, apply a sealer made for exterior teak and follow its directions on reapplying. For heavily weathered teak, a dedicated teak cleaner refreshes the surface before you seal.

Avoid pressure washing, which can strip natural oils and raise the grain, along with harsh bleach-based cleaners and sealing over dirty or damp wood. At season's end, teak can stay outside under a cover once it is clean and fully dry. Skip tight plastic tarps that trap condensation.

For off-season protection, a fitted cover keeps dust, leaves, and rain off any outdoor piece; look for water-resistant fabric, a drawstring or tie-downs, and a size that clears the legs. Browse covers and other extras in our outdoor accessories collection.

Wash powder-coated aluminum and wrought iron with mild soap and a soft cloth, then dry them right away. Aluminum is the more forgiving of the two because it does not rust the way iron does. Rinse, wash, rinse again, and towel-dry to prevent water spots. For mineral deposits, a diluted white vinegar solution, rinsed off after a few minutes, usually does the trick.

On aluminum, watch for paint chips. Clean the chip, lightly sand the edges, wipe with rubbing alcohol, and apply color-matched touch-up paint in thin coats.

Wrought iron needs the most attention, because bare iron rusts quickly once moisture reaches it. The routine is the same, but drying is not optional. Treat chips and surface rust with a wire brush and sandpaper, then a rust-inhibiting primer and a paint made for metal.

Things to avoid on all metal furniture:

• Abrasive brushes or scouring pads on powder-coated finishes.
• Bleach or ammonia-based cleaners, which can damage protective coatings.
• Steel wool on aluminum or powder-coated finishes, which can scratch the coating and leave particles that rust.
• Leaving metal furniture wet for long periods.

Clean resin wicker with a soft brush, a vacuum, and soapy water, and clean cushions by following the fabric's care label. The weave takes a little more patience than a flat surface.

1. Remove the cushions and brush off surface debris.
2. Vacuum with a brush attachment to pull dirt out of the weave.
3. Wet the piece with a garden hose.
4. Scrub with mild soapy water, using a toothbrush between the strands.
5. Rinse well and let it dry completely before the cushions go back on.

For mildew on wicker, start with a gentle diluted white vinegar spray. Skip the pressure washer, which can damage strands and push water into the frame. At season's end, store wicker indoors or under a cover.

Cushions deserve their own routine. Brush off loose dirt, and blot spills right away with a mild soap and water spray. For mold and mildew on Sunbrella fabric, Sunbrella's care guide recommends 1 cup of bleach and 1/4 cup of mild soap per gallon of water, left for 15 minutes, then scrubbed gently, rinsed thoroughly, and air dried. For other fabrics, check the care label before using bleach.

Before storing cushions, make sure the fabric and foam are completely dry. Use breathable bags rather than sealed plastic, kept in a cool, dry indoor spot off the floor. Our guide on how to store outdoor furniture in winter covers the rest of the off-season checklist.

The easiest way to cut patio upkeep is to start with a material that asks for less of it. If you would rather spend your weekends hosting than sanding and sealing, from holiday gatherings to the first spring cookout, HDPE pieces like the Ashore Modern Folding Adirondack Chair let you rinse, relax, and get back to the good part. Our guide to how long outdoor furniture lasts shows how each material holds up over time.